In the Footsteps of St Cuthbert

05 August 2008

A personal report from Clifton Diocese parishioner Judith Collin who’s recently walked St Cuthbert's Way. 

St Cuthbert (635 - 687) on hearing of the death of St Aidan, the founder of Lindisfarne resolved to join the monastery at Melrose. Later he went from Melrose to Lindisfarne. Today one can make the same journey by following St Cuthbert’s Way, a long distance path, starting at Melrose and finishing on Lindisfarne, Holy Island. The walk is about 62 miles starting in The Borders, the Eildon Hills, Tweed Valley and the Cheviots then crossing the border into Northumberland.

Day 1
A steep climb out of Melrose through the Eildon Hills, with great views behind of Melrose and ahead of the Cheviots.  Then along the Tweed Valley, very peaceful and beautiful. I stood and watched herons fishing. Further along, the path followed the line of Dere Street, a Roman road. This area was the scene of constant skirmishes between the English and Scots. I passed Lilliard’s Stone which commemorated the heroic fight by a Scots lass at the battle of Ancrum Moor. The day ended at Mounthooley, just outside Jedburgh.

Day 2 
The walk was varied, river valley, fields, woods and moors. Then just as I was getting tired there was the climb to Wideopen Hill. However it was well worth the effort as the views in all directions were stunning. Then a descent to Kirk Yetholm and the welcome sight of the Youth Hostel. Kirk Yetholm is also the end of the Pennine Way. I met Neil who had just completed that walk and was tiredly euphoric. Kirk Yetholm was also where the Scottish Gypsies held court and you can see the cottage known as the Gypsy Palace.

Day 3 
Another climb at the start of the day following the Pennine Way then splitting off to cross the border into England. This is a remote high and boggy area and although it rained I was glad that the visibility was good. There was a second area of high moor land before a more gentle finish through the forest and Wooler Common into Wooler for that night’s B&B.

Day 4 
This was a long trek through the countryside, the highlight being St Cuthbert’s Cave. In 875 the monks brought his body here as they escaped from the invading Danes. His body is now in Durham Cathedral. From the top of the hill, the first glimpse of the sea and on the horizon, Holy Island. A gentle 12km descent with the hazards of crossing the A1 and the east coast railway. This evening the tide is in and I could see Holy Island across the water.

Day 5 
Early morning and the tide is out. Boots and socks off and it’s one happy pilgrim following the poles across the sands and finally arriving on Holy Island.

The gifts of the pilgrimage for me were many. As always the beauty of God’s creation and the peace, becoming in tune with one’s body and mind and heart, becoming free to meditate. Encounters with other people the sharing of their experience. I think particularly of three Americans I met in Melrose. I think of Gill and Pat who walked the same route. We met from time to time and walked across the sands together.

Judith Collin

There’s more from Judith on cliftondiocese.com - her thoughts from the Camino and Loyola retreat.